I have a Paradigm Seismic 110 with a broken rear switch, someone else had removed it and soldered on 3 cables leading to a connector box. I'm presuming this was to bypass a broken 3 pin 3 way switch as you can see in the picture. I can't seem to find the right kind of switch, would it come up as a different name for home AV parts?
Any help would be excellent and, on this what someone has done with this connector, would I just join one piece of cable to the left or right and then tough the centre with the other end to activate it?
Any help would be excellent and, on this what someone has done with this connector, would I just join one piece of cable to the left or right and then tough the centre with the other end to activate it?
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I see three wires going to a terminal block.
I would suspect the switch is a mini SPDT toggle switch (see image below and the attachment).
Try putting the sub into 'auto' mode by connecting a wire link between the centre and left hand terminals of the terminal block.
EDIT: See next post!
The sub should then auto-activate when it senses a signal from your amplifier.
Caution: Unplug sub from mains before making the connection!
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Hi Galu, I'll give that a try and see what happens, hopefully it has life in it. When I bought it they said it had no power, so, just hoping it is just that. I have tested all the transistors, MOSFETs, capacitors and they all are ok. The pic is what someone else did inside, but why I was unable to find the right switch as it seems on the board the other 2 holes are support poles for the original switch?
Look for a UK supplier of this or similar: https://www.debcoelectronics.com/product/spdt-on-off-on-pc-mount-switch/
Here's one from RS: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/togg...p.ds&msclkid=3539d5731a501e00b954b1264eeb3a23
Also called an 'angle PC mount'.
Also called an 'angle PC mount'.
Thanks, but, need to fault find now. I never noticed it had a bottom led for power, it was not on, so, tested a few more parts, all the resistors are within range, transistors, but on testing the bridge rectifier (in circuit) it seems bad, just going to whip it out and the main capacitor and test again. Think it's wise to pull all the block caps to and test? Paradigm do not do a service manual for this sub....
Hi people, a long overdue update, so, I had it tested at least with a tech person. He found that the amp stage was all good, the power supply seemed ok, bridge rectifier ok, main electrolytic capacitor ok. All main components, tested ok, yet it will not switch on still.
Really getting on my nerves haha
Really getting on my nerves haha
I can't see any other power switches other than the one with "AUTO" or "TRIGGER" on it.
I think you need to supply 5-24V DC to the 3.5mm jack to trigger ON the subwoofer if the switch is in the "TRIGGER" position, or an audio signal to turn ON the subwoofer if the switch is in "AUTO" "position.
My suggestion would be to try connecting the wire on the connection box to the "TRIGGER" position and apply 5-24V DC to the 3.5mm jack and see if you can trigger on the subwoofer.
I think you need to supply 5-24V DC to the 3.5mm jack to trigger ON the subwoofer if the switch is in the "TRIGGER" position, or an audio signal to turn ON the subwoofer if the switch is in "AUTO" "position.
My suggestion would be to try connecting the wire on the connection box to the "TRIGGER" position and apply 5-24V DC to the 3.5mm jack and see if you can trigger on the subwoofer.
@XsamuraiX
You never told me if you tried my suggestion on post #3 in order to select the "auto" function.
You never told me if you tried my suggestion on post #3 in order to select the "auto" function.