well the Fast/Waw is Fullrange Assisted Sub Technology/ Wideband Assisted Woofer(there's dissension as to which acronym it should live by)
but it's basically a full range driver + sub check out the full range forum for some ideas, check out Planet 10's threads who knows it may appeal to you.
as someone who has spent too many years listening to multiway PA stacks i've developed a liking for it myself.
but it's basically a full range driver + sub check out the full range forum for some ideas, check out Planet 10's threads who knows it may appeal to you.
as someone who has spent too many years listening to multiway PA stacks i've developed a liking for it myself.
The Jeff Bagby Adelphos + 10" woofer seem to meet your goals.
---Kits at Meniscus, or diy from similar design open threads.
--Adelphos, Bare Bones Speaker
--Kairos Woofer Module Bare Bones Kit
SB_Acoustics SB29RDC-4 (1.1" dome tweeter)
Satori MW16P-8 (6.5" midbass)
SB_Acoustics SB29NRX75-6 (10" woofer)
---(deep bass in 2.3cuft ported cabinet)
---(tight bass in 2.3cuft sealed cabinet)
Adelphos, Bare Bones Speaker Kit (Pair) - Meniscus Audio
Kairos Woofer Module Bare Bones Kit (Pair) - Meniscus Audio
---Kits at Meniscus, or diy from similar design open threads.
--Adelphos, Bare Bones Speaker
--Kairos Woofer Module Bare Bones Kit
SB_Acoustics SB29RDC-4 (1.1" dome tweeter)
Satori MW16P-8 (6.5" midbass)
SB_Acoustics SB29NRX75-6 (10" woofer)
---(deep bass in 2.3cuft ported cabinet)
---(tight bass in 2.3cuft sealed cabinet)
Adelphos, Bare Bones Speaker Kit (Pair) - Meniscus Audio
Kairos Woofer Module Bare Bones Kit (Pair) - Meniscus Audio
Attachments
There are so many different aspects to look at, it's hard to know where to start.
E.g.:
Driver size
10" + 6.5" + 1"
Box design
Size
30-60L sealed bass.
"Oversized" 15L aperiodic mid.
Whatever the tweeter comes with/needs.
Split boxes with rubber feet between them.
Basic Shape
Big, wide frontal area for richer/warmer baffle step.
Consider a wave-guide for the tweeter to narrow down its dispersion, a la Gedlee.
Consider box curvature to reduce reflections/re-radiation from the corners.
Materials
18mm hardwood ply for the structure.
Consider something exotic for the mid baffle, like an aggregate with something soft like plastic + stone/metal to make it heavy and absorbent, and layer of cork/rubber connecting it to the rest of the box. Sandwiched felt for the vents.
XO's and system integration
I don't know much about good passive filters, except to put a polypropylene cap in series with the tweeter, and series resistance to reduce harshness (especially with integrated/high-power amps). There's more to it than just adjusting levels because a resistor can also tame electrical wrong-damping. Resistance in series with the mid could also help.
Apart from that, I prefer the main filtering to be active/digital. This has the major benefit of isolating the distortion of each component. E.g.: woofer-related distortion has no effect on the signals sent to the mid/tweet. Some high-end amplifiers with low/no feedback may cope really well with complex loads, but digital filters have allowed me to get surprisingly clean output from low-cost class-D modules.
Other factors
Estimated design time + build time + debugging and fixing vs. "available" effort + money + risk of SNAFUs. Limited space, or other people dictating to you how small/pretty/out-of-sight the design must be...
3-way in a W15" x H24" x D16" cabinet(2-2.3cuft) with example of simple beveled baffle cabinet.
Mix of SB_Acoustics and Satori drivers
Drivers = $336/speaker
$57_____1.1” SB29RDC-4
$131____6” MW16P-8
$148____10” SB29NRX75-6
Does this cabinet size fit your room? Stands?
Do you want an all passive crossover, or Bi-Amp with direct-drive to woofer and passives on the Mid + Tweet
========
To reduce cost by $83
$33____1" tweeter___SB26STCN-4
$72____6.5" midrange ___SB17MFC35-8
You can purchase the same midrange motor with poly-platic OR paper OR aluminum cones.
I assumed you would favor a poly-plastic cone over an aluminum cone.
Mix of SB_Acoustics and Satori drivers
Drivers = $336/speaker
$57_____1.1” SB29RDC-4
$131____6” MW16P-8
$148____10” SB29NRX75-6
Does this cabinet size fit your room? Stands?
Do you want an all passive crossover, or Bi-Amp with direct-drive to woofer and passives on the Mid + Tweet
========
To reduce cost by $83
$33____1" tweeter___SB26STCN-4
$72____6.5" midrange ___SB17MFC35-8
You can purchase the same midrange motor with poly-platic OR paper OR aluminum cones.
I assumed you would favor a poly-plastic cone over an aluminum cone.
Attachments
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This looks very interesting. How well would it work with the smaller 5" satori? Just from a dispersion matching perspective. I'm not particularly after wide dispersion just want to avoid the off axis glare. I see so many speaker measurements of commercial speakers where the off axis retainer energy specifically in the 2-4khz range and I wonder if this ot what I find bothersome in the upper mids?
Revel f206
I do like the idea of a 10 inch woofer and would probably go with the satori mid. The baffle width seems large but I'm guessing that's much of where the large speaker sound comes from? I would prefer to keep it passive. I foolishly spent $2000 on a boutique 2channel amp. But it does 100wpc continuous into 8ohm. So should be adequate for my listening levels. The design is front ported?
Revel f206
I do like the idea of a 10 inch woofer and would probably go with the satori mid. The baffle width seems large but I'm guessing that's much of where the large speaker sound comes from? I would prefer to keep it passive. I foolishly spent $2000 on a boutique 2channel amp. But it does 100wpc continuous into 8ohm. So should be adequate for my listening levels. The design is front ported?
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You want BASS. The WinISD simulation in post #22 shows that a ported volume of 2 - 2.3 cuft is desired for the 10" SB29NRX75-6 woofer. Your work with speaker standmounts should confirm that a maximum 24" high cabinet is desirable. SO, run a few dimensions through a spreadsheet and a 24" high x 15" wide x 16" deep is one good option for 2.3cuft empty. I selected a 15" width because: (1) the speaker frame is 11.4" diameter; (2) to reduce the air pressure between the rear cone and cabinet walls. Ports can be located on front, rear, side baffle.
Do you favor different cabinet dimensions?
I selected a ~6" diameter midrange with a "low sensitivity" crossover between 1.7 - 2 kHz because of exceptional reviews for Xairos, Aldephos, Kalasan, Music&Design.... to maintain constant directivity with the tweeter, to attenuate cone breakup distortion.
Attachments
It's supposedly a very good "Rock&Roll" speaker but I don't think it qualifies as a "Classic" Monitor.
You bring up some excellent points. Especially the part about resources. I pretty have to do all my building in my dad's shop about 30 min drive from me. It makes speaker building a bit more cumbersome. I also don't mind the time to learn to build my own but what time I have is limited. I also don't possess the bucket of parts for tweaking the crossover. Also I live in a townhouse, so testing and tweaking and measuring may **** off the neighbours? Ideally and in hindsight I shouldn't have bought my amp. Probably should've gotten separates to use with a minidsp as the crossover and go full active. Oh well... I do really like my amp.
Keeping all this in mind I still want to build something myself. The bang for the buck is incredible, and what I've heard from my $1500 internet direct speakers with raal tweeter destroys my $4000 Revel speakers. Yes both are three ways. I decided building a kit from an established designer would work best for my situation.
Is designing my own speaker something that's actually viable?
Keeping all this in mind I still want to build something myself. The bang for the buck is incredible, and what I've heard from my $1500 internet direct speakers with raal tweeter destroys my $4000 Revel speakers. Yes both are three ways. I decided building a kit from an established designer would work best for my situation.
Is designing my own speaker something that's actually viable?
Thanks! The measurements I linked in post #28 use a waveguided shallow tweeter and a 5.25in woofer. Although the off axis response is smooth it's still uneven. I've been trying to figure out what's causing the mismatch. Is is a dip between mid and woofer or a peak between tweeter and mid? I've noticed this upper mid off axis peak in many many commercial speaker measurements. So I'm wondering what causes this and how to prevent it. Is a 4 in mid with wider dispersion better or would the 6" with a narrower dispersion improve things?
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