DIY Class A/B Amp The "Wolverine" build thread

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stuartmp::
fireamimal:


I can't seem to find the email asking for participants in the latest 4th group buy.
- Color Selection: As voted by the majority, the PCBs will feature a matte black finish. We're excited to see how these new boards turn out. Matte black is one of my favourites.

- I will finalize the order on Monday when the PCB house reopens.

Thank you all for your active participation and support you've given to the Wolverine project. This wouldn't have been possible without you guy!
Stay tuned for more updates after we finalize the order and production begins.
Would it be possible to add me to the list of 4 output boards?

You have my contact info as this would be my second buy of boards.

Thanks, Charles
 
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Just an update on the GB1/GB2 heatsink prices from my earlier post, I cannot edit it. Thanks!

EF3-3 - Includes Driver, Predriver, and CCS/VAS Heatsinks - $55 USD
EF3-4 - Includes Predriver and CCS/VAS Heatsinks - $40 USD
Heatsinks_1.png
 

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The insulator that covers the wire needs to be made out of an approved material to prevent or be highly resistant to fire.
One suggestion is good quality silicone wire. Its also way more flexible then toroidal transformer wire, which is usually quite stiff.

Please consider this for all your non rated wire. Amp wire

I've used it many times and its very good quality.

Please watch again the YouTube video on how to wire your amplifier there are may tips there. Wiring your amplifier.

That wiring that you have on the Perf board is not suitable for high voltage the outer rings of the pads are two close together to be save. You could get the voltage jumping across those pads. Maybe not now but in future as dust and other contaminants build up. Also those pcbs are certainly not design for the currents that are flowing through them.

We all want each other to be safe and what you have isn't, please don't take this as criticism think of it as an opportunity to improve and develop a better method to wire your amplifier.
Hi Stuart,

Could you identify the wire your link lead to? It is no longer active.

Thanks,

Chip
 
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