F5m kit

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Joined 2004
Unless you have expensive speakers or one could short your output, but if you know what you're doing - i've been enjoing lots of diy amps without it.
 
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I have always just relied on the TH in series with the transformer primary to limit inrush current at turn-on. I haven't used DC protection and have not had a problem....yet (20+ years in the hobby).
 
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Joined 2019
If we were talking chip amps, I’d say speaker protection is a must, but the first watt designs are as reliable as it gets as long as they’re built and set up correct.
 

6L6

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The PSU already has a soft starting function, so the soft start PCB isn’t not necessary.

If you wish to add the DC protection you may, however, I suggest doing this after you have your amp built and functioning properly.
 
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Never used it (DC protection) here with the many Pass clone amps Ive had. All but the F6 are still running. I used its case and power supply
for Aleph J. Most of my builds have the CL-60 setup for inrush. I did follow 6l6's build guide instructions and used the store delay in my BA3 amp.. Both work fine.
 
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Joined 2012
Hi coffee-fan
I have built the F5 several years ago. Sound was amazing. No noises when I switched it on or off. What, when it blows? Then you have 28V DC going directly to your loudspakers. In the end I returned to my Yamaha MX-2 which sounds quite good and has a very good protection circuit (tested it involuntary).

One of my next projects will be a F5M. I will add a Ls-protection circuit - for peace of mind. They are much cheaper than any loudspeaker in case of failure. Yes I am a coward. I can happily live with this.
 
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The one and only
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The next batch of F5m Essentials will be listed in the store very shortly.

Important to note that I have made a minor improvement in the power supply boards detailed here.

:snail:
 

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Is this a mistake?

_
 

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Joined 2007
I must apologize. I did not disclose the fact that a top cover was not included in the purchase of my enclosure, and my temps are achieved while going topless.
Have you tried a second test with a solid panel (cookie sheet, cardboard, whatever) place over the top for comparison. It seems to me that Imperfect as it is, simply sliding the panel over to allow a 5%, 10% etc opening may be helpful in laying out/buying a permanent lid. Cheers
 
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Joined 2010
Tried and watched the bias go to about 1.5 amps per side. I will probably buy a bigger pair of sinks and fab an expanded metal of some kind for a lid.
 
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Joined 2012
These can work is you have a way to cut them. There are different sizes. Search Amazon:

Excellante 18" X 13" Half Size Aluminum Sheet Pan, Perforated​

 
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Nice idea on the sheet pan. I cut aluminum by using a jig saw, then some clamps and a 2x4 for sanding a straight edge . I then use a belt sander (3x21or 3x24 is a good size) makes almost perfect results.Need to file the sharp edge with a file of course. I suppose a table saw with a metal blade would also work well. I assume one could use a masonite or plywood backer for thin gauges.
 
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