The crossover
Note the project is here
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...5-15-8-and-markaudio-alpair-5-3-maop-5.412829
Note the project is here
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...5-15-8-and-markaudio-alpair-5-3-maop-5.412829
The cheap bass driver does well the job. I also choose it perhaps my assertion was false : it must sound good because for musicians who play bass. In the bass area it works well, precise. In the lower mid could be a little clear, neutral but it is well done. A dedicated driver could do better like a 8". In the future I'll try a 15ob350 to listen if better...
I would like use a lower order crossover to have 4 octaves (150-2000) of coverage instead 2 (300-1000) but the woofer has a negative impact in treble due to the 2.6kHz breakup.
The mid tweeter is extraordinary good, very neutral, very precise. The midrange is clear, can handle the 15". The treble is better than my 1" dome in the sense of dimension. The 1" seems to go higher in frequency but less realistic. Honestly I don't have experience to say which is better MAOP 5 or 1" dome. The sound of the MAOP 5 reminds me my SEAS magnesium drivers. I have some other projects for the MAOP 5.
I would like use a lower order crossover to have 4 octaves (150-2000) of coverage instead 2 (300-1000) but the woofer has a negative impact in treble due to the 2.6kHz breakup.
The mid tweeter is extraordinary good, very neutral, very precise. The midrange is clear, can handle the 15". The treble is better than my 1" dome in the sense of dimension. The 1" seems to go higher in frequency but less realistic. Honestly I don't have experience to say which is better MAOP 5 or 1" dome. The sound of the MAOP 5 reminds me my SEAS magnesium drivers. I have some other projects for the MAOP 5.
Greetings all,
as I threatened in post #4,381, I performed measurements with different baffle widths, adjusted by taping extensions of different length, different angles - including perpendicular to and parallel with the baffle, symmetrical and one sided, and determined that symmetrical extensions, each about 3.5 inch, gave me about 3.2 dB improvement without significantly changing the response character, namely the difference between the peaks and thoughts.
I then bought an 8 inch Quik-Tube for the side wings and I used a different diameter tube for the upper portion with a shelf for the wave-guide.
As you may be able to ascertain form the picture, I have not mounted the drivers yet, since despite the curvature it seems to me that the new structure is little out of proportions. So, I have a friend who is a painter (artist) to come and recommend a paint scheme for it to appear taller. I know that it is a prototype, but if further testing shows promise, I will need that anyway.
Kindest regards,
M
as I threatened in post #4,381, I performed measurements with different baffle widths, adjusted by taping extensions of different length, different angles - including perpendicular to and parallel with the baffle, symmetrical and one sided, and determined that symmetrical extensions, each about 3.5 inch, gave me about 3.2 dB improvement without significantly changing the response character, namely the difference between the peaks and thoughts.
I then bought an 8 inch Quik-Tube for the side wings and I used a different diameter tube for the upper portion with a shelf for the wave-guide.
As you may be able to ascertain form the picture, I have not mounted the drivers yet, since despite the curvature it seems to me that the new structure is little out of proportions. So, I have a friend who is a painter (artist) to come and recommend a paint scheme for it to appear taller. I know that it is a prototype, but if further testing shows promise, I will need that anyway.
Kindest regards,
M
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Lol @mefistofelez , Something tells me it's not your painting skills... bondo, fiberglass, or a crap ton of high build primer and a bunch of sanding 👍
Pop into the car audio forum. Any pros that hang out there can probably offer the best advice. Only the lazy ones will suggest carpet
Pop into the car audio forum. Any pros that hang out there can probably offer the best advice. Only the lazy ones will suggest carpet
Hi @seventenths,
ROTFLMAO, Now lazy, that is right at my alley.
I am not talking about the lack of surface preparation, but the fact that I have paint build-up, despite trying to use several coats, not trying to cover everything in one or two coats, and other techniques that I learnt on youtube. But then again, perhaps it is all related.
Kindest regards,
M
ROTFLMAO, Now lazy, that is right at my alley.
I am not talking about the lack of surface preparation, but the fact that I have paint build-up, despite trying to use several coats, not trying to cover everything in one or two coats, and other techniques that I learnt on youtube. But then again, perhaps it is all related.
Kindest regards,
M
Hi @seventenths,
thank you for the reply.
As this is a new area for me, I used Bulls Eye 123 primer; the label claims adherence to many materials, and since I have a combination of paper and floating floor boards, it seemed like a logical choice. After some more reading, I also think that the sandpaper I used (600 grit), was too fine, recommendation range from 150 to 220.
But, we are moving away from the topic, so without trying to be rude, if you have any further advises, which I do appreciate, perhaps p.m. is a better means?
Kindest regards,
M
thank you for the reply.
As this is a new area for me, I used Bulls Eye 123 primer; the label claims adherence to many materials, and since I have a combination of paper and floating floor boards, it seemed like a logical choice. After some more reading, I also think that the sandpaper I used (600 grit), was too fine, recommendation range from 150 to 220.
But, we are moving away from the topic, so without trying to be rude, if you have any further advises, which I do appreciate, perhaps p.m. is a better means?
Kindest regards,
M
The tweak goes on.
I finally let go my 2 pair of Seas TV21 drivers, and was in the mood to modify my speakers a little.
Instead of some 4 ohm Seas, I went back to some Peerless Alnico paper tweeters, and instead of using them as helper tweeters, used a rudimentary crossover to go after the worst break up mode of the full range 12s.
Having a -3db highpass point at 10000 hertz, and a -3db point at 6000 hertz cleaned that up a lot more tidily to my ears than a 6db notch filter centred at 8000 hz.
The old paper tweeters sound better than the Seas pair with the admittedly midfi upstream components.
Still not done, I raised the amplifier highpass, now using some 0.039uf caps for a first order highpass around 150 hertz.
Thanks to the vagaries of open baffles and room loading, this actually sums very well with an open baffle sub lowpassed 4th order around 65-70 hertz, with a medium Q 4db cut at 80 hertz.
Spinning a few old familiar albums, after Dune 2 and Amadaeus films this morning.
Surprising me the most was how much less gain it needed with the bass amplifier after highpassing the stereo amp.
I finally let go my 2 pair of Seas TV21 drivers, and was in the mood to modify my speakers a little.
Instead of some 4 ohm Seas, I went back to some Peerless Alnico paper tweeters, and instead of using them as helper tweeters, used a rudimentary crossover to go after the worst break up mode of the full range 12s.
Having a -3db highpass point at 10000 hertz, and a -3db point at 6000 hertz cleaned that up a lot more tidily to my ears than a 6db notch filter centred at 8000 hz.
The old paper tweeters sound better than the Seas pair with the admittedly midfi upstream components.
Still not done, I raised the amplifier highpass, now using some 0.039uf caps for a first order highpass around 150 hertz.
Thanks to the vagaries of open baffles and room loading, this actually sums very well with an open baffle sub lowpassed 4th order around 65-70 hertz, with a medium Q 4db cut at 80 hertz.
Spinning a few old familiar albums, after Dune 2 and Amadaeus films this morning.
Surprising me the most was how much less gain it needed with the bass amplifier after highpassing the stereo amp.
